Orchids, Moosehide & Beverly’s.

The blue skies were clear, the sun was beaming, and there was no wind when we set out on the 9th Avenue trail, which wraps around the back of Dawson and connects to a few other trails like Moosehide, Crocus Bluff, and the Dome. We started at the north end, stopping by the influenza cemetery on the way. Through young willow and birch we weaved up the hillside. Bees buzzed in and out of wild roses and bluebells, still wet with morning dew.

Morning Bluebells

Slowly graves started to appear amongst the grasses and, suddenly, we were surrounded. Because it was expensive to ship into Dawson, most of the graves had headstones made of wood. This meant some had not survived well.

View of the George Black Ferry from the 9th Avenue trail.

We carried on to the trail that led up the hill above the back of Dawson. Bluebells and wild roses lined the path the entire way and the smell of spruce pine filled the air. Along the way we saw squirrels fighting and old relics, like rusty tin cans, from the gold rush littered about. Loud booms suddenly rumbled through the dry air. Behind us, toward Moosehide Slide, large black clouds had massed and were climbing the hill. More were gathering in the opposite direction. It wouldn’t be long until they reached us and we would be drenched so, we hurried home.

Large storm clouds threatening over Dawson.

During the month of June, the Spotted Lady Slipper Orchids bloom and there is nowhere in the Yukon that they do this in such abundance as on the Orchid Acres trail. To get there, we had to cross the Yukon River to West Dawson using the George Black Ferry, part of the Top of the World Highway. We decided to head off at 11:30pm on a midnight hike, with bear spray in hand.

Waiting for the George Black Ferry.

Once over the river, the highway wound uphill through spruce forest for about 5 minutes to the start of the trail. We saw the orchids sprawling across the forest floor minutes into the walk. Their tiny heads poking up through the greenery in the soft evening glow of the midnight sun.

Spotted Lady Slipper Orchids.

The trail dropped down to overlook the Yukon River, just before the Tr'ochëk River joins it. This is where Trʼondëk Hwëchʼin First Nation lived before the Klondike Gold Rush and the influx of people into Dawson pushed them out. The Chief at that time, Chief Isaac, moved everyone to Moosehide Village, down river.

Tr’ochëk - traditional fishing village of Trʼondëk Hwëchʼin.

We stayed here for awhile taking photos and watching the light change, but never disappear.

Spruce tree overlooking the Yukon River.

The Yukon River. Wāhia Te Pouri Felise.

Campsite on the shore of the Yukon River.

On the way back to the boat we stopped and took shots looking over the river to Dawson. By this stage it was almost 1am.

Dawson City and Moosehide Slide.

Waiting for the George Black Ferry from the west side of the river.

As part of our scout for things to do and places to visit, we had visited the Danoja Zho Cultural Centre and were invited to Moosehide for the cemetery clean up. When the day came, we were all ready on the shore of the Yukon waiting for our ride down river. The trip was quick thanks to the fast flowing water. The cool morning air was refreshing, but I was glad for the warmth from the Moosehide dogs snuggling for pats. The boat slowed as we passed the dock, turned around, chugged against the current, and slid up to the dock. The dogs whined with excitement and leapt off as soon as they could.

There was only a light breeze, now the boat had stopped, against the sun glaring down. Above us, dark wooden cabins rose out of light, lush green grass. We followed the elders and the gear, who were in a side-by-side, up the hill to the cooking house. Here, a moose noose was pulled out and we were invited to singe the nose hairs off to prepare it for cooking. It smelt of lambs’ tails.

After baking under the heat from the sun and fire, we had a feed courtesy of Trʼondëk Hwëchʼin. Unfortunately, we had to get back to Dawson for work before the moose nose had finished cooking (it was slow-cooked after we removed the hair).

We also signed up for a willow-basket weaving workshop. On another bright and still day we wandered down to front street between doing some housekeeping work. Under white marques, we prepared strips of willow bark by cutting to the template size and putting it back in water to keep it supple. The day was hot and I was already tired from changing over rooms in the lodge. I stood barefoot on the grass for this part, the cool grass on my feet and the cold water on my hands was very relaxing.

Once we finished preparing, we sat down at a table with our willow bark strips, damp cloths, and spray bottles to keep everything wet - if the bark dries out it will break and not bend. The waving was very similar to rāranga, with a few subtle differences.

Almost every week we have been going to Beverly’s Bakery. It is such a treat but so hard to choose - they all look so good! Enjoy eyeballing some of the ones we have tried so far.

Thanks for reading - Hei kōna!

Saskatchewan Berry Eclair

Coconut Cream Pie.

Peanut Butter Eclair and Banana Cream Brioche.